I am psyched about having the opportunity to climb for 365 days straight but that is going to be a monumental task, physically and psychologically. I would like to share my training regimen with you all–to encourage and inform. I want to be clear that I am not a professional trainer or coach. I have only the experience of studying my own body’s responses to various types of exercise over the last 15 years or so. You may find some beneficial pointers here, or you may know way more than me. Either way, I’d love to hear from you. I am always trying to learn more and apply what I already know.

My strategy for training is “Periodization”: Basically the idea is to focus on several different areas that need improvement and train different categories with different exercises and varying levels of intensity. I am trying to avoid a monotonous workout that simply maintains fitness levels–rather I am keeping a pretty wide variety in my workouts to avoid the bodies natural adaptation processes so it will always be taxed. I was fortunate enough to get some input from Hans Florine from www.fitnessrank.com (of El-Capitan speed record fame) and I will be implementing that too, so stay tuned!


The first several weeks (til mid October) will be  the foundational period. Here is what it looks like:

  • Gym training with light weights 10-12 reps
  • Working all major muscle groups to strengthen oppositional muscles, not just “climbing” muscles
  • Climbing at 50-60% maximum effort
  • Lots of traversing initially interspersed with easy bouldering V1,V2 and routes in the 5.9 range
  • Goal is lots of mileage, not climbing hard routes
  • Short hangboard sessions focusing on endurance
  • Focus on improving technique/footwork (being smooth)
  • Significant quantities of intense cardio (45 min-hr)
Here are my goals for this foundational period:
  • Improve cardio endurance
  • Improve climbing endurance
  • Improve open-hand contact strength (less crimping!)
  • Improve fluidity and technique
  • Get more flexible!
Many thanks to our friends and sponsors over at the Inner Wall in New Paltz NY (around back in the Rite Aid plaza)–we are thankful to have such an amazing facility in which to train!